(It also helps to develop rose notes, in soap-making.). For a while, it was actually an accepted currency in Europe ah, those were the days, By Kilian Straight to Heaven But they look fresh, and cheerful, and uplift the spirit and in fragrance marketing, thats can be a useful allusion. Gucci Alchemist's Garden Winter Spring Although ink-y notes can come from natural materials like oakmoss, it generally isnt really ink that youll smell in a scent. ", "Musk is an aromatic base note derived from a combination of natural and synthetic sources. Apples have been a part of fragrance creation right back to the medieval era of Arab perfumery. Absolutely. Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet The fruit is the size of an orange, with a yellow-green colour similar to a lemon. Its actually a natural aroma chemical found in roses, but also citronella, geranium, palmarosa, petitgrain, eucalyptus. Now who, exactly, first thought that an ingredient from the castor sac (a gland near the beavers reproductive organs) would be just fantastic when bottled and dabbed onto the pulse-points? Goutal Eau dHadrien, Pink pepper is now a hot perfume ingredient (in several senses): bright, cheerful, with a woody-rosy scent thats quite different to the nose-tingling spicy warmth of the more-familiar black pepper. 9 Brooklyn Meo FusciuniNotturno, Lime blossom (a.k.a. To the Greeks, it spelled good fortune.) LArtisan Parfumeur Timbuktu Katy Perry Meow Whats a sticky, bright red syrup doing in a perfume bottle? Gucci Guilty And they smell lovely. IllamasquaFreak. (Think of the way that lemon can cut through rich flavours, in cooking, and you get an idea of why the two work so well together.) While a creative director or brand may be involved in conceptualizing, the nose is the one with the training and expertise to actually combine the precise ingredients- noses often . Happily, its so concentrated that only a small amount need be used (although several very sophisticated scents do ramp up the tuberose, as a star ingredient). Este Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia (We know many people who say that tomato leaf is their first scent memory, perhaps introduced by a much-loved grandparent who wants to share its so-distinctive, scented furriness.) In the past few years, fragrance fashion has looked to the Middle East for inspiration and catered to perfume-lovers there who often own as many as 170 perfumes. The fruit can be round, or oval, depending on which species youre looking at and the skins can range from yellow or green to maroon. Chanel Chance Its a fantasy note, of course: as perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'Sugar doesn't exist in perfumery - but sugary facets can be found in synthetic notes called maltol and ethyl maltol'; that sweet and caramel tone is very much used in perfumer, these days. Gardeners cultivate these widely, albeit most successfully inside fruit cages because birds, as well as humans, just love the perfectly-ripened fruit The distilled absolute of the blackcurrant buds and leaves is known as bourgeons de cassis (say it boor-shon da cassee): a light, fruity, woody note with a slightly animalic edge. It is like sticking bright colored flowers into my army boots. In Medieval times, lavender was strewn on the floors of churches and homes, used to scent linen and clothing, and also in pot pourri and sachets. However, many brands try to sneak in some ingredients that might harm your skin in the long run. Ylang ylang famously clambers round the heart of some of the most beloved fragrances in the world, including the best-known of all: Chanel No. Este Lauder Private Collection Check out the below infographic to help you figure out the best elements to keep an eye out for while investing in the perfume of your choice. Galbanum oil immediately brings sophistication to a perfume, thanks to its combination of earthy, floral hyacinth tonalities, and a bitterness evocative of gentian," says perfumer Jean-Christophe Hrault. Clive Christian V for Women Sometimes.) Yves Saint Laurent Opium, Rather like grapefruit, its near-relation, pomelo is a brilliant, vibrant top note or heart note which adds citrussy sparkle to many perfumes, especially Colognes. The price of the natural ingredient probably doesnt help: it takes 500 kilos of flowers to produce one kilo of concrete, and about one-tenth that quantity of absolute. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne Pour le Matin Yardley English Lavender. Guerlain Chamade Where she touched the ground, beautiful iris flowers grew out of her footprints. Comme des Garons 8 88 As an ingredient, camphor can be extracted from the camphor tree (an evergreen which flourishes in Asia), but its also present in rosemary and eucalyptus: they have that same lung-opening, nostril-opening effect. Most famous as a recreational drug, the fibres of the plant can be woven into tough cloth hemp and every part of the flower is edible: hemp seed oil is highly nutritious, and great for skin, too (internally and externally). Guerlain Cuir Beluga Eucalyptol Eucalypt extract. The davana herb (a member of the silver-leafed Artemisia family) is native to India, and once its steam-distilled has a sweet, tea-like smell, reminiscent of dried fruit. You might think that the name has sexy overtones but not at all: allegedly the passionflower (a glorious blue/purple, twining vine) and passion fruit were named by Spanish Catholic missionaries who saw the flower as the symbol of the Passion of Christ, because the ring around its heart looks like the Crown of Thorns. French for Lily of the Valley, muguet is one of the three most used florals in perfumery. "It was used for the first time in 1966 in iconic fragrance, Eau Sauvage by Parfums Christian Dior," says Huclier. For centuries, the essential oil of bergamot has had a close link to perfumery and scent, even used to scent small papier-mch boxes for keeping small precious mementos - like locks of hair and love letters. Histoire de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge neroli, when its extracted in a particular way) is one of the most precious scent ingredients of all. She loved it. LOccitane en Provence Verbena Sorbet (It helps to dispel parasites hence its name) In fragrances, wormwood is also bitter and green and so used with the lightest touch, generally (in mens but also womens scents), because its pungent and intensely herby. Then the leaves are either CO2-extracted, or steam-distilled. Tuberose is a plant with highly perfumed white flowers, resembling those of a lily. Quince was used by the early Arab perfumers, by the Greeks and Romans: they steeped the fruit in oil, and made a perfume from its flowers that was called Melinum. Kai is an exclusive perfume brand crafting exotic fragrances that have celeb followers including Jennifer Aniston, Julia Roberts, Charlize Theron, Reese Witherspoon, and Jennifer Garner. Pepper, is metallic and spiky, sharp. Cardamoms been spicing up perfumery (and the incense trade) at least since Egyptian times, and was one of the key fragrance plants used in Greek perfumes. James Heeley Cardinal (Say it foo-jair, with the j a little soft almost foo-shair.) Agonist Blue North. But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! David & Victoria Beckham Signature for Her Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Its the image of driftwood that this note really evokes visions of saltiness, seaside, water and lightness. But we happen to adore it, Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta 5 Its a sensory experience: that candied breath of sugar. "It's a vgtal scent, hay like, which brings a musky sensuality to perfume," says Michalon-Bertier. But bitter orange is a fragrance note in its own right, widely used in eau de Colognes and chypre fragrances, as well as adding a whoosh of freshness to florals. Sprinkle it on your smoked salmon. Total ingredient transparency is what truly sets Michelle Pfeiffer's fragrance brand, Henry Rose, apart from the rest. Not bad allusions for a fragrance note, wed say. works nicely as long as you dont mind its lack of commitment', STORIES N.02 Bougie Parfume Scented Candle Trio, STORIES N.01 Bougie Parfume Scented Candle Trio, We save your email and cart so we can send you reminders -, 4160 Tuesdays Another Kiss by the Fireside, 4160 Tuesdays Midnight in the Palace Garden, 4160 Tuesdays The Dark Heart of Old Havana, 4160 Tuesdays The Sexiest Scent on the Planet. Herms Hermessence Ambre Narguile Este Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia Not much romance here, were afraid. Miller Harris Terre de Bois, Deadly nightshade. Do smell deep, though, and see if you can detect intrigue beneath the soft surface. Donna Karan DKNY Because as with that spirit the juniper berry adds a bracing, exhilarating touch to fragrances. Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose Burberry The Beat Once upon a time, dried fruits were a serious luxury, for the wealthy to enjoy in haute cuisine. You may also be familiar with it from body products and even fabric conditioners: Cashmeran clings, and doesnt rinse out well, leaving traces of its sensuality on the skin after showering, or your bedlinen after laundry day. Vivienne Westwood Libertine. Dior JAdore His father prayed for Orchis to be restored, but instead the gods transformed him into the flower we know today as the orchid. Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Woman And there is a quality that says "bathroom, used, not cleaned for a while", and so much more. Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impriale And today, thanks to their sheer versatility, notes from the ionone family appear in almost every fragrance creation. Today, most petitgrain productions centred in France, Italy and Paraguay, with some in North Africa. Escada Escada Grs Cabotine Thierry Mugler Angel (Sometimes, theyll turn to synthetic iris to create that cool, almost sterile effect), Andrea Maack Craft Guerlain Champs Elyses ', Britney Spears Circus Fantasy ', Bulgari Jasmin Noir This native of Central and South Asia, a relative of hops, is now probably grown in every country of the world (albeit quite often in attics under gro-lights). Can anyone whos not a trained nose tell the difference between this and an actual peach? (Just like in baking.) Noses professional perfumers - love, love, LOVE ionones. The crunchy bits we like to eat arent much use to perfumers but the earthily-scented oil harvested from the seed is: restricted from using oakmoss in its natural form, because of sensitisation issues, celery seed oil actually comes pretty close. Van Cleef & Arpels First A stunner, which deserves to be better known (and more widely-used). Certainly no hot-blooded Roman, homesick for a city where rosewater bubbled through the fountains, awnings soaked in rose oil shielded VIPs in public amphitheatres from the baking sun, pillows and mattresses were stuffed with rosepetals (the better to propel the weary towards dreamland) and where rose garlands were the ultimate Roman must-have status symbol. The Fragrance Shop's head of brand, Athina Macpherson offered some interesting insights into how Britons spent their money on fragrances this year. 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